Few buildings announce an empire as clearly as the Brihadisvara Temple. Raised in granite by the Chola king Rajaraja I and completed in 1010 CE, it was the largest temple of its age in South India, and it has remained in continuous worship for more than a thousand years. Locally it is often called the Periya Kovil, the Big Temple, and the name is not an exaggeration.
This guide covers the temple's history, what to look for as you walk through the complex, and how to combine a visit with the other great Chola temples nearby.
A brief history
Rajaraja I ruled the Chola kingdom from the late tenth century and extended its reach across much of South India and beyond. The temple he built at his capital, Thanjavur, was dedicated to Shiva and conceived on a monumental scale: a single towering vimana (the tower above the sanctum) set within a vast walled courtyard.
The base of the temple carries long Tamil inscriptions recording gifts of land, gold and jewels, and naming the people who served the temple, from musicians and dancers to lamp-keepers. They make the building one of the best-documented monuments of medieval India.
In 1987 the temple was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The listing was extended in 2004 to include two later Chola temples, and the three are now known together as the Great Living Chola Temples.
The Great Living Chola Temples at a glance
| Temple | Location | Built under |
|---|---|---|
| Brihadisvara Temple | Thanjavur | Rajaraja I |
| Brihadisvara Temple | Gangaikonda Cholapuram | Rajendra I |
| Airavatesvara Temple | Darasuram | Rajaraja II |
What to see inside the complex
You enter from the east through two successive gateways before the full length of the courtyard opens out in front of you. Give yourself time here. The scale of the vimana is best appreciated from a distance, before you approach the sanctum.
The vimana
The tower rises in diminishing tiers to a domed capstone, and its height, commonly given as around 66 metres, made it a landmark across the flat Kaveri delta. Look for the carved guardian figures (dvarapalas) flanking the entrances and the niches on the outer walls, each holding a sculpted form of Shiva.
The Nandi pavilion
Facing the sanctum, in its own pillared pavilion, is a large monolithic Nandi, the bull who serves as Shiva's mount. It is one of the most photographed features of the temple. Remember that this is a place of worship, so keep to the side when devotees are offering prayers.
Murals and sculpture
The passage around the sanctum holds Chola-period murals that were rediscovered in the twentieth century beneath later Nayak-period paintings. Access to these passages can be restricted, so do not plan your visit around seeing them. Elsewhere in the complex, sculpted panels depict dance poses (karanas) described in the Natya Shastra.
Planning your visit
The temple is a working shrine, and the experience changes through the day. Early morning is usually quieter, while the evening brings more worshippers and a softer light on the stone.
- Allow at least two hours to walk the courtyard without hurrying.
- Footwear is left outside the temple entrance; bring socks if the stone is likely to be hot.
- Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees, as you would at any temple in Tamil Nadu.
- Carry water, but leave food outside the complex.
Nearby Chola temples
The two other temples in the UNESCO listing can be reached by road from Thanjavur, and many travellers base themselves in Kumbakonam to see them.
- Airavatesvara Temple, Darasuram. Smaller and more intimate, with exceptionally fine carving, close to Kumbakonam.
- Brihadisvara Temple, Gangaikonda Cholapuram. Built by Rajaraja's son Rajendra I at his new capital, with a vimana of more graceful, curving profile.
Getting there
Thanjavur Junction is the nearest railway station and is connected to Chennai, Tiruchirappalli and other cities in Tamil Nadu. The nearest airport is Tiruchirappalli International Airport, from where the journey continues by road. Within the town, auto-rickshaws and taxis are the easiest way to reach the temple.
